Paris in Two Days: A Recipe for Exhaustion

No one looks happy on the metro. Not even me. Not even when I am. In Paris, we spent much of our time staring down the aisle of our subway cars as they wound around the corners of the dark tunnels. We became so familiar with the stations, that this morning I became surprised, noticing we beat the Montparnass fruit salesman and saxophone players to their stations.

We also became familiar with crowds. We were lucky with lines, but were still squeezed through the massively elegant rooms of the palace at Versailles and had to compete with what felt like a tranquil mosh pit on the way to see the Mona Lisa.

We had just two days in the most visited city in Europe. On our first day, we learned that our hostel was quite a bit outside central Paris, but that we’d been upgraded to a double room. It was extraordinarily small (so our communication skills became essential when trying to move anywhere) but came with a bathroom, soap, a small desk, a closet, and a TV (luxuries I’d never expect from a Paris hostel).

We began exploring the city in our favorite way by joining a Sandemans free walking tour. The guide was, like usual, amazing. We were given practical tips, enchanting stories, and historical background information for many of the sites in central Paris. Later, we journeyed along the Champs-Ellyses to the Arch de Triumph, meandered under the Eiffel Tower, and took a long walk back to the cathedral of Notre Dame…to find it closed. When we reached our hostel to prepare dinner, we were pleased with the day’s efficiency but a bit too sleepy to be pleasant company.

The following day began with the Versailles. Regardless of the crowds, the castle was breathtaking. We spent most of our time exploring the gardens. The trip would have been further improved if any of the dozens of fountains were in use, but was impressive and relaxing none the less.  We enjoyed a stroll through Notre Dame before picking up doubles of our favorite free samples and filling up on gyros (which may have given me a mild allergic reaction, talk about mystery meat!).

We made the wise choice to spend our free bubble of time in the Luxembourg Gardens. It was a perfect day to sit beside the fountain pool soaking up a bit of sun, enjoying the gentle breeze, and watching children play with large toy sailboats. Moderately recharged, we walked to the Louvre picking up a crepe and ice cream along the way.

Even with the extra dose of sugar in our bloodstreams, we ran out of steam in the massive museum. We were able to enter for free (free to those under 26 on Friday evenings!) and many of the exhibits were not at all crowded. However, we found ourselves repeatedly trying to decipher the importance of works by staring at the small engraved plates below each, only to be re-reminded that we do not speak French. When confident that we’d enjoyed our “money’s worth” another metro trance carried us home to prepare for our early morning trip to Amsterdam.

Spoiler Alert: Amsterdam is WAY cooler than Paris

Ohana-Shmolana, SEMB Drumline means Family

The thing about UW-La Crosse’s SEMB drumline is that you don’t really sign up for a solitary year. And, you don’t actually even sign up for four or six years. When you register for the class, you’re signing up to join a family to last as long as you want or need it.

The members of this silly sincere family can become more than classmates and friends. They grow into roommates, coworkers, confidants/therapists, and (if you find yourself in Taiwan, Puerto Rico/Guatamala, France, Japan, or a great number of other locations) they might even drop everything to become one heck of a tour guide.

In a previous post, I mentioned the amazing feeling that comes from staying with family. This week, we found ourselves enjoying the hospitality of another (drumlinerly) family member. I’ll post details stealthily later (because this blog is become my travel journal and I really don’t want to forget anything, but would rather not spam newsfeeds), but for now, just let me gush.

I got to visit our friend Fuse (note that the nickname basically implies that she was in the drumline with us) in Nancy, France. We’ve been looking forward to this portion of the trip for a very long time, and with Fuse’s (plus her boyfriends AMAZING and generous parents’) help it totally delivered. Think huge beautiful homemade French dishes, evening light spectaculars, picnics beside quiet gurgling streams, and exquisitely ornate cathedrals. We managed to catch up while exploring medieval ramparts, making fools of ourselves on park equipment, and strolling down adorable Alsatian roads. On our last evening, we even out fondid ourselves J I cannot imagine a more fulfilling time.

So, if you're reading this Fuse, thanks for causing enough laughter to force tears through the corners of my eyes. And, for taking us places that made me take way too many pictures. And, for being allowing us catch our breath from planning while soaking up more spectacular European memories with you.

Family By Shared History and Northern Italy

Family is not always defined by blood. Sometimes, it’s defined by shared history. My sister and I are fortunate enough to have shared history with a lovely family living in northern Italy. If you’ve already heard the story (or would just rather not hear it), feel free to skip the next paragraph. If not, I’ll try to be brief.

During World War II, some German prisoners were put sent to Galesville, WI to work on the farms. One man in particular, Hans, met another La Crosse resident working at the same farm. This man invited Hans home to speak German with his parents who were German immigrants. So, Hans started visiting my great grandparents’ house as well as with my great uncle. After the war, he returned to Germany but the connection with my great uncle and grandmother remained strong. For many years, letters, photos, and small gifts were exchanged. The task of letter writing was passed on to Hans’ daughter Heidi when he was no longer able. Eventually another visit to the states was planned, but it wasn’t possible for Hans to make the trip himself. Once in 2010 and again in 2012, Heidi visited our family along with her husband, Fausto, and two sons, Nikoli and Rafael. When they last visited, we were able to discuss our anticipated visit to Europe. Heidi offered the flat in Berlin and invited us to stay with the family in Trento as well.  So, one paragraph later, we find ourselves in the beautiful mountain town of Trento.

There is a special kind of hospitality that comes from visiting family. As soon as we arrived, we were showered with amazing food. In addition to Heidi’s home cooked meals (which put every restaurant we’ve visited to shame), we visited a farm to indulge in fresh homemade yogurt just meters from the cows responsible. We also spent time at a bee farm and tried some honey.  After taking in some breathtaking, postcard worthy views we were treated to gelato and a short tour of the city. Next came my favorite part. After stopping at a lake for some photos, we drove to the area where Fausto grew up to pick some fresh cherries. I’ve been feeling jealous from seeing facebook pictures of strawberry picking back home, but the feeling was cured with my very first cherry. We were surrounded trees of various varieties of cherry and invited to gobble up as many as we liked. I worry that no other cherry will ever be able to compete with the giant firm sweet cherries we tried. After weeks of being a tourist, beyond being a wonderful day, it was refreshing to know we were experiencing something authentic.

The following day, we took a long drive to Verona to allow for a spectacular view of the mountains, Lake Garda, and interesting after effects of glaciers (compressed stone, piles of rocks which were carried with the ice, and the results of volcanic activity). Arriving in Verona, we met Martina, a relative of the family. With her vibrant personality and vast knowledge of the city, she took us on a walking tour to rival Sandemans. After the tour, we stopped in a quiet square for some great quality gelato. As we enjoyed the treat, Heidi remarked, "To me, this is Italy," and I found myself feeling incredibly blessed just to be sitting where I was, enjoying Heidi's Italy.

A Hostel with Atmosphere: Chalet Martin

We didn't bring a small guide book on the trip. We brought the ginormous Lonely Planet's Europe on a Shoestring. We wouldn't be carrying the extra three pounds if we didn't trust it. So, when the book recommended hostel named Chalet Martin nestled in the quiet city of Gryon (and mentioned a chocolate tasting) we booked ourselves a reservation from Prague.

Until we reached the final big train station, no one we spoke with had even heard of the town, but as we boarded the “cogwheel train” (which looked very much like a tram to me) and started to ascend the mountain it became certain we were in for a treat. After the giant city buildings of Geneva I was extremely pleasantly surprised to find the mountain speckled with adorable traditional Swiss chalets. With it's width and the path's lack of shoulder, the train seemed to float up the mountainside, inches from tremendous drop offs and rushing streams.

We followed some convenient signs a short distance uphill from the trainstop and found ourselves in a hostel like none we’ve visited before. We had to wait a bit to be recognized and squeeze behind a refridgerator to make it to receptions (they’d moved it to clean the kitchen floor), but the down to earth, family owned nature of Chalet Martin set it apart in the best possible way. After spending a moment taking in the view from our dorm’s balcony over some peanut butter Nutella sandwiches, we set off on a 5 hour hike.

The majority of the walk was well marked with yellow signs. We enjoyed comfortable stretches along roads, steeper stretches along uneven ground, and views of rivers, hill sides, demure family farms, and the kind of mountain sights that dislodge one’s jaw. Eventually we wandered into some pastures (the cow pies and incessant jingle of cow bells gave it away).  We bravely trod between dozens of potentially malicious bovines with all the confidence of two girls from WI finally realizing that they’ve never been around cows without a stall divider or fence to separate them. The second two thirds of the hike brought several wrong turns, retraced paths, and muddy streams. So we were wonderfully happy to be back home when we reached the hostel again.

Our next task was to translate our German sauce packet to cook dinner. After finding the name of an ingredient we couldn’t decipher, Merlin (yea, like the wizard) one of the hostel’s coowners, swooped in and provided us some milk to sub for the “whipping cream” called for. The rest of the evening was spent outdoors getting to know various other guests and employees. We also fit in a couple games of Othello and a few hours watching a camp fire.

Like so many others we spoke with, we found ourselves tempted to stay another night…or month. This hostel is not just a bed to sleep in, hot shower, and free bathroom. It’s a community.  The cozy movie room, game room, huge book swap shelf, and massive spice rack set it apart as a place to slow down and feel at home. The hostel also won my heart with their thorough garbage/recycling system, efficient refrigerator baskets, recyclable grocery bags, and informational notes posted on every wall or doorway. The close group of coworkers and semi-permanent residents foster a social atmosphere that is hard to beat. Fortunately, trekking down the hill back to town was made far easier by the mounting excitement of an even more exciting portion of the trip; Nancy, France! :D

Roaming Roman Thoughts

We spent two and a half days in Rome, but tried to relax while fitting in all the “must see” attractions. Our Roman host (in Geneva) quizzed us on the sights we saw and apparently we made good choices and visited all the things he deems worthwhile. I stood in awe of the vast coliseum, hurt my neck trying to take in Michael Angelo’s masterpiece in the Sistine Chapel, and wandered the extensive Roman Forum.

We also went on a tour from a man who’s voice constantly reminded me of “You would say that’s a pretty sweet world, right?” and who used the phrase “MOST important” about twice per monument. We got to people watch in a few other places as well. One woman was spotted chucking raw meat unto the road below a bridge, then abandoning the remainder of the pile, potentially when she saw us watching. Another woman sweeping the street near the train station noticed a winter coat. After contemplating and nudging it for a bit, she thrust it into the street, as if it were a solution. Lastly, I encountered a gentleman who first asked to take a picture with me on his camera. This was weird, but since I couldn’t figure out any immediate danger, I obliged. Next, he asked where I was from (normal), and insisted that I was rich (not normal). After that, he told me that he likes America and would like to go there (normal) and asked if it would be possible for him to go back to America with me (not normal and our cue to flee). 

 On the second evening, we chose to walk to the Trevi Fountain to see it lit up. As anticipated, it was both gorgeous and packed full of people. It didn’t take long for me to stop focusing on the beauty of the sculpture and rather to see the beauty of the others visiting it.

It struck me that every person visiting has an expectation of the picture they want to take. But the images I witnessed as they planned were far sweeter than what can be captured on film. A kind husband volunteering his head as a tripod, a young boy closing his eyes tight to think of a wish before appeasing his parents by tossing his coin, an elderly couple smiling sheepishly as they wait for the shutter, a son pulling his mom into the frame of a picture with him, little girls who couldn’t care less about the fountain because there is a cone of gelato in their hands and it seems way more important, an infant with no idea that her mom intends for her to throw the disk of metal from between her fingers. For the first time, in a city known for monumental sights, I stopped looking at the attractions. 

Living with a CERN Physicist

Sitting outside the Geneva train station waiting to be greeted by our three day host made me more than a little nervous. It didn't help that I couldn't guarantee I'd recognize him from the solitary photo I'd seen on the Couchsurfing website. This discomfort didn't dissolve upon his arrival. Conversation was rather stilted. To my minor dismay, he didn't jump into an explanation of his work more than to tell me that he is a theoretical physicist studying strong field interactions. When asked how he liked Geneva (he's recently moved to work at CERN after living in Rome, Berlin, Madrid, Liverpool and visiting countless other locations), he remarked that it was quite boring. (Oh...good.) By the end of the night though, we were at ease. He made us some amazing homemade spaghetti carbonara and took us out to visit part of the city. We eventually settled in on the pull out couch feeling more confident about the days ahead.

In the morning, Sue and I voyaged to the adorable town of Neuchatel rather unprepared for the cold rainy day. The town was lovely in all respects, but being cold and wet rather dampened (tee hee!) our spirits. Between a well designed museum, a youth circus, a castle, an old church, and just being ridiculous together though, we enjoyed ourselves nonetheless. Our host wasn't back from work when we reached Geneva, so we took a stroll along the lake and a short jaunt through the botanical gardens. The gardens are really magnificent in scale and contain lots cool looking buildings and exhibits (all of which were unfortunately already closed). We went out for dinner which, in the one of the most expensive cities in the world, is a bit daunting. Ironically, just a day after leaving Italy, we found ourselves enjoying the best Italian pizza we've tried though. So it was 100% worth it.

Today was the day I was most excited for. After all, we selected Geneva primarily because I wanted to see CERN. AND if I couldn't visit America on her birthday, the next best thing would be to visit CERN for the one year anniversary of the Higgs Boson announcement. We began the day by getting totally lost on the mission of visiting old town before exploring the Red Cross Museum (half Sue's fault as the one in charge of navigation and half my fault for totally disregarding navigation). Two hours and a couple sore feet later, we reached the museum to learn that the free temporary exhibit wouldn't be ready for another 6 months (longer that we could wait) and that the permanent exhibit cost about 17 dollars (more than we cared to spend). So, with all the positivity we could muster, we wandered into a free art museum just a block away. As per usual, we had fun. It's pretty hard not to have fun when you get to goof off with your best friend whom you only get to visit 3 times a year.

By the time we walked to the tram to CERN, I was very tired (Side note: Our host goes to bed around or after 1am and my body wakes up by 7am regardless). I fell asleep no less than 7 times on the 20 minute ride. Thank God for sisters who don't let you miss your stop to see a particle accelerator...

Mini background for non geeks: CERN is a European organization for nuclear research. The most notable feature is their 27km diameter particle accelerator hanging out 93m below ground level. This structure allows physicists from around the world to study a variety of topics such as antimatter, quarks, and the environment present at the start of the universe. Basically, they use really really really cold super-duper magnets and some electricity to smash protons together at nearly the speed of light. Think dueling boys' hot wheels cars on a track...but, about 1^30 times cooler.

Our tour consisted of:
-An informational video about CERN made for the 50th anniversary (2004, so rather outdated)
-A short presentation about the work being completed at the various sites by a researcher working at CMS
-A look into the control center for ATLAS (No one was there at the moment because the LHC was recently stopped for maintenence...well unless you count the woman making sure that everyone who goes down to the LHC comes back up)
-A 3D video about the parts and working of the LHC

Afterward, we enjoyed tons of interactive exhibits and experiments in their two permanent exhibitions. I found myself wishing that it would be possible to bring every physics class I ever have to see them. Next, we met up with our awesome host who treated us to some coffee. This is the first time I've had coffee in Europe because of a fear of espresso. One cup, a creamer, and a packet of brown sugar later though, I was sold on it and energized for a short walk. It was less showy than anything during the tour, but again, authenticity will always have a very special place in my heart. So, after exchanging the keys to allow some snacking and a nap (if this darn caffeine ever wears off), we returned to the apartment. To close, here's a short list of what I enjoyed most from the visit.

-Learning that they have a summer program for high school teachers (which with a bit more experience, some hard work, and a good dose of luck I might get to participate in someday)
-Noticing a "LGBT CERN" sign in a hallway
-Skimming educational and amusing comic books in the gift store
-Noticing a "Keep Calm and Baryon" sign
-Enjoying the Big Bang presentation within the Universe of Particles
-Feeling equal parts excited about everything I understood from the exhibits and challenged by the EXTREME quantity I have yet to learn.